Kiwi Kraze

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Kiwi Kraze

by Guido the Gardener

When was the last time you savored the unusual sweet, but tangy flavor of a fluorescent green Chinese gooseberry? Whether you realize it or not, it could have been this morning! Thanks to clever marketing minds, yesterday's Chinese gooseberry is today's kiwi fruit.
    Although relatively new to American shoppers, kiwi fruit goes back hundreds of years in its native China. The "Yang tso," as it was known, grew wild on vines which wrapped around trees. About 300 years ago the Chinese began domesticating and improving these wild vines.
    Around the turn of this century, plants were imported to the United States, while seeds were introduced to New Zealand. The race was on! (New Zealand won.) It wasn't until the early 1960s that imported kiwi fruit made its way to the U.S. (By that time it was tagged with its new, more marketable moniker.) At about the same time, orchards in the Chico area were beginning to produce the first California crops.
    Kiwi consumption took hold during the 1970s but absolutely BOOMED during the 1980s. From 1980 to 1985 alone, kiwi sales multiplied seven times. That was during the "kiwi kraxe," when folks who coulld easily burn water were including this ultra trendy fruit in every recipe imaginable.
    The popularity of kiwi fruit is understandable on many fronts. From a grower's standpoint, the easily trained vines are prodigious bearers, often yielding more than 200 pounds of fresh fruit per vine! And unlike many fruits, most pests don't bother with kiwis, thus decreasing the need for chemical sprays and the like. Another advantage is that they can be picked mature, but underripe and may be stored for months, without harm or loss of nutrition. The brown, fuzzy skin also protects it from treatment that would turn a nectarine into nectar!
    On the nutrition front, the kiwi can win the gold, silver, and bronze medals. One serving, (two fruits) has almost twice the vitamin-C as an orange, 1-1/2 times the potassium of an average banana and almost as much fiber as a cup of bran flakes. If you de-fuzz and eat the lemony skin, you are even further ahead.
    Most kiwis you'll confront in the markets are usually on the firm side. If you eat them at that stage, they will leave a tangy twinge on your tongue. It is best to ripen them at home like an avocado -- leave them out of direct sunlight but in a warm spot. After a few days they should get softer and sweeter. Once ripe, they can keep at least a week or two if wrapped in a plastic bag in the refrigerator.
    Stay away from kiwis that are shriveled or show mold at either end. They have passed their prime.
    There are just short of a zillion ways to serve kiwi fruit. Now maybe I'm the odd guy on the outs, but I enjoy most fruits very simply. It goes like this: wash it, cut it, eat it! The flavor combo of melon, strawberry and even a hint of banana are best enjoyed without a lot of competition. Kiwi does lend itself well to cold salads like chicken, turkey, or smoked fish. Or try it in a spinach or green salad, used as you would orange segments.
    One culinary cue: kiwi fruit contains an enzyme that breaks down the protein in meat and dairy products. This lends itself well as a natural meat tenderizer. Just peel and mash a fruit with a fork and spread onto the dining delight, let it stay for 15 minutes, then scrape off. If you are in a daring mood, make a marinade from kiwi and let it set overnight.
    If you use it with ice cream, whipped cream, or yogurt, serve it pronto after you combine them. Kiwi turns a funny-looking, drab olive green color when cooked. Toss it in at the end of a recipe just to warm it through.
    The current crop is all from California, and will be until New Zealand kicks in around May. The seasons are exactly opposite, giving us steady, year-round supplies. Conventionally grown kiwis are priced about 10 cents to 20 cents apiece with organics at about 39 cents each.

Copyright © 1996 Mark Ferro
All Rights Reserved

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